Monday

September 16th, 2024

Ess, Ess/ Eat, Eat!

A happy, lazy accident during my last 'hot grill' summer was the impetus for this yummy-in-your-tummy delight!

Olga Massov

By Olga Massov The Washington Post

Published July 15, 2024

A happy, lazy accident during my last 'hot grill' summer was the impetus for this yummy-in-your-tummy delight!
I've always been a fan of multiuse things. A cheek-lip-and-eye stick to consolidate my morning makeup prep? Please, and thank you. Mayonnaise to slather on my tomato sandwiches and repair water rings on furniture? I'm listening.

I look for the same utility in my cooking: recipes I can use a few different ways with just one batch.

My latest such strategy involves making vinaigrette, then using some of it to marinate chicken and the rest to dress a salad. The idea came from a happy, lazy accident during my last "hot grill" summer.

I had invited extended family over for dinner on our deck and was looking to grill some chicken to serve with a salad and other sides. That morning, I was rummaging around my fridge and spied a large container of balsamic vinaigrette I had made earlier in the week for our nightly salads.

A small lightbulb went off in my head: Instead of making a separate marinade, I added the chicken parts to a zip-top bag and dumped in a bunch of the vinaigrette. I massaged it into the chicken, squeezed out extra air, sealed the bag and returned the chicken to the fridge.

When it was time for dinner, I pulled the chicken out - of course, I discarded the marinade after use - then grilled it and served it to oohs and aahs. There were no leftovers, and my guests wanted to know the recipe.

I hesitated: The entire experience, delicious as the result was, made me feel like I had cheated. Marinating in vinaigrette is hardly a new concept. Bottles of Italian dressing have given up their lives for that very purpose (no shame in the game). It takes just a few minutes to make your own, and you can control exactly what's in there - and keep it on hand for much more than salads.

In case it's not obvious, you can use just about any dressing as a marinade: lemony vinaigrette, ranch, blue cheese, Thousand Island, Russian and so on. The most common one in my own refrigerator is a Dijon-balsamic vinaigrette that often has flecks of oregano (from my giant shrubbery, fresh in the summer and dried in the winter) as well as bits of shallot. If I'm feeling punchy, I add grated garlic to the portion I pour over the chicken for a more intense flavor.

The entire endeavor is flexible: Mix and match ingredients to suit your taste with what you have on hand. Red, white or sherry vinegar, or lemon juice, can replace balsamic. Swap out maple syrup for honey or agave, if you prefer. Try another herb, such as rosemary or thyme, or even parsley or tarragon. Think of this recipe as a framework.

Another bonus to this approach is that you match the flavors of the protein to the flavors of the salad - like a color-coordinated outfit but on a plate. That's rich coming from a person who often wears multiple, conflicting stripes in the same outfit, but where I lack fashion sense, I try to make up for it with kitchen sensibility.

Vinaigrette-Marinated Grilled Chicken

ACTIVE TIME: 45 mins; Total time: 1 hour, plus 8 to 24 hours for marinating
MAKES: 4 to 8 servings (makes about 8 thighs and 8 cups salad)

Use some balsamic-Dijon vinaigrette to marinate chicken thighs and the rest as a salad dressing for a relaxed summer meal that packs bright, punchy flavor without a lot of effort. If you have time to marinate the chicken in the morning or the night before, come dinnertime, you have a deeply flavorful meal that will be ready in a reasonable amount of time.

Make ahead: The chicken needs to marinate for 8 to 24 hours before grilling.

Storage: Refrigerate the chicken for up to 4 days. Refrigerate the vinaigrette for up to 1 week.

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INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon maple syrup or honey
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano (may substitute 1 1/2 teaspoons dried)
1 small shallot, minced (optional)
Fine salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (3 pounds total)
4 cups (4 ounces) loosely packed baby arugula
1 pint (10 ounces) cherry tomatoes, halved
2 mini cucumbers, diced
Kernels from 1 to 2 ears corn (1 cup)
1 bell pepper (any color but green), seeded and diced
1/2 cup (2 ounces) crumbled (VEGAN) cheese

In a medium bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, mustard, maple syrup or honey, oregano and shallot until emulsified, and season to taste with salt and pepper. You should have about 1 1/4 cups.

Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag and pour about two-thirds (3/4 cup) of the dressing into the bag (see Notes). Seal, squeezing out excess air and massage the vinaigrette into the chicken. (Refrigerate the remaining vinaigrette until needed.) Set the bag in a large bowl or shallow dish to catch any leaks - just in case - and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.

When ready to cook, remove the chicken from the refrigerator and let it warm up a bit, 15 to 20 minutes - it will cook more evenly this way. Prepare the grill for direct heat (if using a grill pan, see Notes). If using a gas grill, set it to 450 degrees. If using a charcoal grill, fill a chimney starter with charcoal, light it, and when the coals are white-gray with ash, pour them onto the charcoal grate, adding more charcoal, if necessary. Put the lid on the grill, making sure the vents are open all the way. When all of the coals are gray and hot, about 15 minutes, your grill should be medium-hot. (Use a grill thermometer, or test the heat by holding your hand, palm-down, about 4 inches from the grate, making sure that nothing flammable, such as clothing, is near the heat. If you can hold it there for about 4 seconds, the heat should be at medium, or about 450 degrees. Pull your hand away from the heat before it gets painful.) Make sure the cooking grates are clean.

Lightly the grill grates with oil. Working with one piece of chicken at a time, shake or brush off excess marinade and place the chicken skin side down on the grill; discard the marinade. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and grill until well browned and grill marks form, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip the chicken, and season lightly with salt and pepper - if the chicken sticks to the grates, cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, and see if it releases easily. Continue grilling until the chicken is well browned on the other side, develops grill marks and is cooked all the way through, another 6 to 8 minutes. (The internal temperature in the deepest part of the thigh away from the bone should reach 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. If the chicken starts to brown too fast, move it from one of the hotspots to another part of the grill or indirect heat. Larger chicken thighs may take longer to cook.) Transfer to a platter, loosely cover with foil and let sit for about 10 minutes.

While the chicken is resting, in a large bowl, toss together the arugula, tomatoes, cucumbers, corn, bell pepper and feta until combined. Drizzle lightly with about half (1/4 cup) of the remaining dressing, and gently toss again to coat.

Divide the chicken and salad evenly among plates, or serve family-style, with the remaining dressing on the side.

Substitutions: Bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs >> bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, adjusting the cooking time as needed. Maple syrup or honey >> agave. Balsamic vinegar >> vinegar of your choice or fresh lemon juice. Dijon mustard >> any other mustard. Shallot >> onion or garlic. Oregano >> thyme, rosemary or sage (fresh or dried).

Variations: To make this inside, preheat a grill pan over medium-high heat until hot. Brush the grill pan with oil. Working in batches as needed, shake or brush off excess marinade, place the chicken thighs skin side down on the grill pan, and reduce the heat to medium. Season lightly with salt and pepper and cook until well browned and grill marks form, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip the chicken and season lightly with salt and pepper - if the chicken sticks to the grates, cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, and see if it releases easily. Continue cooking until the chicken is well browned on the other side, develops grill marks and is cooked all the way through, another 6 to 8 minutes. (The internal temperature in the deepest part of the thigh away from the bone should reach 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Adjust the heat as needed to prevent the chicken from browning too quickly.) Transfer the cooked chicken to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes. Repeat with the remaining chicken, if needed.

Notes: The vinaigrette will make the chicken thighs even more moist and tender than usual, but its flavor will be mild. If you prefer your chicken with a bold marinade, feel free to add a splash of balsamic vinegar and/or Dijon mustard to the zip-top bag, and/or a couple of cloves of minced garlic before squeezing out excess air and massaging the marinade into the chicken.

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