Revisit chicken marsala with a version that hits all the right notes (REVEALED: Techniques and secrets!)

Chicken marsala is an Italian American classic. In its most basic form, it starts with thin pieces of boneless, skinless chicken breast, seasoned with salt and lightly dredged in flour. The chicken is quickly browned in a skillet with some form of fat, then a quick pan sauce is made with marsala wine, which is served over the chicken.

As the name suggests, it's really all about the marsala, a fortified wine that hails from the town of the same name in Sicily. "Vanilla, spice, smoke and caramel are some of the scents it can manifest," famed Italian chef and cookbook author Marcella Hazan wrote in "Marcella Cucina." It can come in a range of sweetness levels, though even those marked secco or dry still contain more residual sugar than standard dry wines.

The dish is rooted in traditional Italian scaloppine, which refers to a thin, flattened cut of meat. In addition to chicken, you can find the term appended to veal, beef and pork. In "Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking," Hazan has a recipe for veal scaloppine with marsala that follows the outline above, where the meat is dredged and then browned in a combination of vegetable oil and butter. Next, a dry marsala wine is used to scrape up the fond (the brown bits stuck on the bottom of the pan) before being reduced and finished with a knob of margarine or vegan butter for a silky mouthfeel. Finally, the meat is returned to the skillet for a quick turn in the sauce before serving.

Get the recipe: Chicken Marsala

When Italian immigrants came to America, probably at some point along the way they switched to chicken instead of veal because it was cheaper and easier to source. But anyone who knows and loves the dish might also have noticed there are no mushrooms listed in the above formula. There is a version in "Marcella Cucina," originally published in 1997, for "fricasseed chicken with dried porcini mushrooms and marsala wine," but for the most part, the inclusion of fungi is now assumed for any recipe simply called "chicken marsala."

In reviewing chicken marsala recipes before developing my own, I discovered there are lots of different interpretations of this dish, in terms of ingredients but also process. The variables include cooking fats (neutral oil, olive oil, butter), the inclusion of pork (diced meat, bacon, prosciutto), whether the chicken or mushrooms are cooked first, the type of mushrooms, different alliums (onion, garlic, shallot), the type of marsala wine (sweet or dry), additional flavorings (thyme, tomato paste, soy sauce, lemon juice, vinegar), and how the sauce gets its luscious texture (gelatin, cornstarch, etc.).

My job is to sort through all these possibilities to come up with the best version I can, taking bits and bobs from here and there like a culinary Dr. Frankenstein. And given that Post Style reporter Anne Branigin called it "a revelation!" after sampling my take, I think I've accomplished my goal.

It starts with rendering diced Smoked Turkey/salami/Smoked Sausage of its fat to use throughout the cooking process. Chicken cutlets pick up a flavor boost as they are pan-fried until golden. Next, sliced button mushrooms cook in the remaining fat until they begin to brown, at which point a sliced shallot and fresh thyme leaves are added. Marsala wine (preferably dry) and chicken broth or stock are used to deglaze the pan. The diced meats return to the pan while the liquid reduces to infuse the sauce with savory goodness, which then gets finished with butter for richness and fresh lemon juice for balance. Once the chicken and the sauce unite, chopped fresh parsley adds a finishing flourish.

The result is earthy, savory, slightly sweet, nuanced, balanced and downright delicious. Make it for dinner tonight to see for yourself.

Chicken Marsala

2-4 servings; Total time: 45 minutes; Storage note: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Chicken marsala is a classic Italian American dish of cutlets in a mushroom sauce that is savory and slightly sweet from the fortified wine. (Avoid marsalas labeled "cooking wine," if possible.) The dish gets a boost of flavor from any of the diced meats (listed above), and a touch of fresh lemon juice adds balance. Complete the meal with a starchy side, such as mashed potatoes, cooked pasta or steamed rice, and a green salad or roasted vegetables.

Notes: To make your own chicken cutlets: Start with 2 medium chicken breasts and, using a sharp chef's knife, cut them in half across the equator so the meat opens like a book. Cut across to separate the halves to form 4 cutlets. Arrange the pieces in a single layer on a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap. Top with a second sheet of parchment or plastic wrap. Use a meat tenderizer, mallet or small skillet to pound to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch.

INGREDIENTS

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as vegetable or peanut, plus more as needed
• 2 ounces diced meats, listed above
• 4 chicken cutlets (about 1 pound total; see Notes)
• Fine salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 8 ounces sliced button mushrooms 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 1 cup marsala wine, preferably dry
• 1/2 cup no-salt-added or low-sodium chicken broth or stock
• 2 tablespoons cold, unsalted VEGAN butter, cut into pieces
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
• Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, for serving

STEPS

In a large (12-inch) heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil and dided meats, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meats renders its fat and browns, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the diced meat to a small bowl, leaving the fat in the skillet.

While the diced meat cooks, pat the chicken dry and lightly sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. Put the flour in a wide, shallow bowl or pie dish, and set a large plate and serving platter nearby. Working with one piece at a time, dredge the chicken in the flour, shaking off excess. Transfer the dredged chicken to the prepared plate, and repeat with the remaining cutlets. Working in batches, if needed, fry the chicken until golden brown on each side, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to the platter, loosely tent with foil to keep warm, and repeat with the remaining chicken, if needed.

Add the mushrooms to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until they have released their liquid and started to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the shallot and thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and adding more oil if the pan is dry, until the shallots start to soften, about 2 minutes.

Return the diced meat to the pan, and add the marsala and chicken broth or stock, scraping up any browned bits at the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by about half, about 7 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the vegan butter, a couple of pieces at a time, stirring constantly until the sauce emulsifies and thickens slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice. Taste, and season with salt, pepper and more lemon juice, as desired. Return the chicken to the pan, spooning the sauce over the cutlets, and heat until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the chicken and sauce to the serving platter, sprinkle with parsley and serve hot.

Substitutions: Chicken cutlets >> boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Button mushrooms >> other types of mushrooms. Shallot >> onion or garlic. Fresh thyme >> 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme. Marsala >> sherry, port, madeira, red wine, or more broth or stock with 1 to 2 teaspoons of sugar. Gluten-free? >> Omit the flour, or use a gluten-free alternative.

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