There’s added flair when an ingredient is used in an unexpected way. In this instance, we’re taking soft, pillowy dumplings and giving them crisp outsides with a touch of chew. Simply grab store-bought gnocchi and sauté them in a skillet with oil, and you’ll be delighted with the results.
This is a new-to-me technique that I’d only seen here and there in other recipes out in the world. Part of me was slightly skeptical about how well it would work, mostly because I couldn’t wrap my brain around the fact that something so simple could be so good. Well, I am eating my words. Crisping store-bought gnocchi instead of boiling them is an easy change with outsize results that deserves to be shouted from the rooftops - and one that I can’t wait to see what else I can do with.
I could snack on the crisped gnocchi like popcorn, but instead I suggest folding them into a fresh, summery eggplant and tomato sauce for a weeknight-friendly meal.
Though it’s not typically required, sometimes I like peeling eggplant so that texturally it can sort of melt into the background, and you’re just left with the vegetable’s mild, sweet flavor. (It might also be a good way to stealthily introduce the vegetable to picky eaters.) However, in most instances it’s not necessary unless the vegetable is old and has an unpleasantly tough skin.
The eggplant goes into an oiled skillet with onion until it starts to pick up some color. If you’ve ever cooked eggplant on a stove before, you’ve witnessed firsthand how much it acts like a sponge soaking up oil. This is where I’d like to encourage you to not fear fat. I’m not saying you should have the cubes of eggplant bathing in a pool of oil, but if the pan looks particularly dry, an extra tablespoon or two of fat as needed can lead to better browning and thus more flavor.
Next, cherry or grape tomatoes, garlic, and water are added, and the tomatoes are cooked until they start to soften and burst. To encourage them along, use the back of a wooden spoon to gently smash them - kind of a like a kitchen version of whack-a-mole - to form a rustic sauce to which fresh basil and the sautéed gnocchi get folded in at the last second.
This dish is best eaten immediately, with a shower of parmesan cheese for good measure, so you can enjoy the fleeting nature of the crisp gnocchi’s texture that gives each bowl its extra bit of flair. That’s the thing about the crispy, crunchy, ooey, gooey and the like: They’re often ephemeral, so take this as a reminder to seize the moment before it fades away.
Skillet Gnocchi With Eggplant-Tomato Sauce
Total time: 30 mins
Serves: 3 to 4 servings (makes about 5 cups)
Store-bought potato gnocchi get sauteed in a skillet until crisp, then stirred into a delightful eggplant and tomato sauce. Garlic and fresh basil lend extra flavor, and a shower of parmesan cheese adds an umami finish.
Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.
INGREDIENTS
•
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
• 1 pound shelf-stable potato gnocchi
• 1 medium eggplant (14 ounces), peeled (if desired) and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 small yellow onion (5 ounces), diced
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes (10 ounces)
• 2 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/4 cup loosely packed torn fresh basil leaves, plus more for serving
• Freshly grated parmesan cheese, for serving
DIRECTIONS
In a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add the gnocchi, breaking apart any pieces that are stuck together, and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and browned in spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate or bowl.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet, along with the eggplant, onion, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally and adding more oil if the skillet looks dry, until the eggplant and onion start to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic and water, and bring to a simmer. Cook, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer, until the tomatoes start to soften and burst, 5 to 7 minutes, using the back of a wooden spoon to gently smash them.
Add the sauteed gnocchi and basil, and stir to combine. Remove from the heat. Taste, and season with more salt and pepper, as desired. Spoon the gnocchi mixture into bowls, top with parmesan and more basil, and serve immediately.
Substitutions: Instead of sauteing gnocchi >> boil medium-shape pasta, such as bow ties or rigatoni, and toss with the eggplant-tomato sauce. Water >> red wine, or chicken or vegetable broth or stock. Parmesan cheese >> pecorino Romano or goat cheese.
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