This healthful dessert is exhilarating, gently sweet and powerfully refreshing

I enjoy ice cream as much as the next person, but it's not my first choice for a cooling treat on a scorching summer day because it's so rich and dense.

For that kind of refreshment, I go for colder, thirst-quenching fruity ices. I'd definitely stand in line for well-crafted Hawaiian shaved ice, Italian granita or a Mexican paleta, but most of the time I whip up my own frozen fruit treats. They're easy to throw together; it's fun to play around with flavor combinations; and you can make them healthier by using inherently sweet fruit, without any need for added sugar.

This version offers maximum relief from the heat with one of the most hydrating fruits, watermelon - it's about 90 percent water, so its name doesn't lie - which, in addition to sweetness, supplies a good amount of vitamins A and C, as well as the antioxidant lycopene and the amino acid L-citrulline.

You start by cutting watermelon into cubes and freezing it. Meanwhile, you also chill a can of unsweetened full-fat coconut milk in the fridge. When ready to serve, scoop out the thick layer of coconut cream at the top of the can and reserve it, then blend the fruit with some of the coconut water that remains in the can and a zesty combination of fresh ginger and lime juice. Whirred into scoopable, blush-colored ices, the fruit transforms into a lively sweet treat.

A dollop of reserved coconut cream adds a luscious finishing touch, resulting in a healthful dessert that's exhilarating, gently sweet and powerfully refreshing.

Watermelon Coconut Ice

SERVINGS: 4 (makes generous 2 cups ice)
TOTAL TIME: 20 mins, plus at least 8 hours of freezing/chilling
STORAGE: The ice is best as soon as it's made. The leftover coconut cream and coconut water will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, and can be used in smoothies, sauces, curries and other dishes

Make ahead: The watermelon needs to be frozen for at least 8 hours, and the coconut milk needs to be refrigerated for at least 8 hours, before making the ice.

• 1 1/4 pounds peeled seedless watermelon, cut into 1-inch dice (4 cups)

• One (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk

• 1 lime
• 1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

STEPS

Place the watermelon in a zip-top bag or other storage container with a lid, seal and transfer to the freezer for at least 8 hours or until needed. Place the unopened can of coconut milk in the refrigerator to chill completely, at least 8 hours.

When ready to serve, transfer the watermelon to a blender and let sit at room temperature to slightly defrost, 20 to 30 minutes.

Carefully, so as not to shake the coconut milk, open the can and use a spoon to scoop out the coconut cream on top. You should have about 1/3 cup; refrigerate until ready to use. Reserve the coconut water that remains in the can.

Finely zest the lime and set it aside for garnish. Squeeze 1 tablespoon of the lime juice over the watermelon in the blender, add 1/3 cup of the coconut water and the ginger, and blend, stopping the blender frequently to stir, adding more coconut water 1 tablespoon at a time, if needed, until the mixture is well combined and the texture of scoopable ice. If the watermelon is difficult to blend, let the mixture sit for another 5 to 10 minutes, then try blending again.

Divide the mixture among dessert bowls, and top each with 1 teaspoon of the coconut cream and a pinch of the lime zest. Serve immediately.

Substitutions:

Lime >> lemon.

Instead of refrigerating and separating canned coconut milk >> use packaged coconut water and canned coconut cream.

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