This cheesy and decadent dish does double-duty as a healthy veggie main

This gratin recipe caught my eye because its defining quality is the double use of the main-ingredient cruciferous vegetable, part of which is pureed to make a sauce for the rest.

The cauliflower puree in this recipe replaces the traditional Mornay sauce (milk, flour and gruyere) in the classic French side dish, getting it awfully close to vegan. Using nutritional yeast instead of the relatively small amount of parmesan (in both the sauce and the topping) and vegan butter takes it all the way home.

Since I was already playing around, I went ahead and shook up the spices, too, using smoked paprika and chipotle as foils to the nutty nutritional yeast (although you can stick with the classic nutmeg and dry mustard if you'd like). I also introduced two shortcuts, adding cornstarch directly to the blender with other puree ingredients rather than creating a separate slurry first; and skipping a step for toasting the panko in butter, thereby saving a skillet - and some calories.

After I tested the recipe, I realized that the lack of a Mornay sauce also made the recipe within easy striking distance of gluten-free. Switch out the conventional panko for a celiac-friendly version, and there you have it: a creamy, comforting dish with a heavy dose of inclusivity.

Creamy Vegan Cauliflower Gratin

This dish uses cauliflower to make a sauce for itself, eliminating the need for dairy while maintaining all the creaminess of a good gratin. In an ingenious cooking setup, the cauliflower cores and stems cook with water in the bottom of a pot while the florets steam in a basket on top. The cores and stems get pureed for the sauce that coats the florets, and the combination bakes under a mix of panko and nutritional yeast for a savory, crunchy top.

Servings: : 4 servings
Active time: 25 mins; Total time: 1 hour
Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days, or freeze for up to 3 months
Make Ahead: The gratin and the breadcrumb mixture can be refrigerated separately before baking, for up to 24 hours. Assemble and bake, increasing baking time by about 10 minutes

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INGREDIENTS

• 1 large head cauliflower (2 pounds)
• 1.5 cups water
• 3 tablespoons unsalted vegan butter
• 6 tablespoons (1 ounce) nutritional yeast, divided
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon ground chipotle
• pinch cayenne pepper
• 1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives, for garnish

STEPS

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Have on hand a steamer basket that fits into a large Dutch oven or other large pot.

Pull the leaves off the cauliflower and trim the stem. Using a paring knife, cut around the core to remove it; halve the core lengthwise and thinly slice it crosswise. Transfer to the Dutch oven.

Cut the head into 1/2-inch-thick slabs. Cut the stems from the slabs to create florets that are about 1 1/2 inches tall. Thinly slice the stems and transfer them to the Dutch oven, along with 1 cup of the florets. Reserve the remaining florets and any small pieces created during trimming.

Add the water and butter to the pot, and set a steamer basket on top. Set the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, add the reserved florets and small pieces to the steamer basket, cover the pot and cook until the florets in the basket can be easily pierced with a paring knife, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the basket, drain the florets, and transfer them to an 8-inch square baking dish.

Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and continue cooking the stem mixture until very soft, about 10 additional minutes. Transfer the stem mixture and cooking liquid to a blender. Add 3 tablespoons of the nutritional yeast, the salt, cornstarch, pepper, smoked paprika, chipotle and cayenne. Process until smooth and velvety, about 1 minute. The puree should be thick but pourable; adjust the consistency with more water, as needed. Taste, and season with more salt and/or pepper, as needed.

Transfer the puree to the baking dish and toss gently with the florets to evenly coat them. Smooth the top with a spatula.

In a small bowl, mix the panko with the remaining 3 tablespoons nutritional yeast and sprinkle it evenly over the top of the cauliflower mixture in the baking dish.

Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, or until the sauce bubbles around the edges. Let stand for at least 10 minutes, then sprinkle with the chives and serve hot or warm.

Substitutions: Not vegan? >> Use dairy butter and parmesan instead of vegan butter and nutritional yeast. Want more traditional spices? >> Use dry mustard and ground nutmeg instead of smoked paprika and chipotle. To make it gluten-free >> Use gluten-free panko or other breadcrumbs.

(COMMENT, BELOW)