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April 19th, 2024

The Kosher Gourmet

A Passover like no other: Embrace a more intimate, sumptious celebration of the Jewish holiday (4 RECIPES!)

 Susan Barocas

By Susan Barocas The Washington Post

Published April 6, 2020

A Passover like no other: Embrace a more intimate, sumptious celebration of the Jewish holiday (4 RECIPES!)


Ann Maloney for The Washington Post

This year, it won't be Passover as usual. Few people will host large gatherings for Seders, instead creating smaller, more intimate celebrations with just immediate family or maybe a handful of close relatives and friends. Out-of-town family, even our children, won't fly in, and there will be no need to borrow an extra table and folding chairs from the neighbors. So, how should we create a Seder and a week of meals to mark this important, joyous Jewish holiday about liberation when so many of us feel trapped in our own houses?

For many of us, our homes are a place of refuge and solace, and the heart of that home is the kitchen, whether it's large enough for a crowd or a tiny corner in a studio apartment. We go to the kitchen not just to feed ourselves but also to find comfort, unwind and release stress after a long day. It's also where we prepare to welcome guests.

While we might be tempted to think of covid-19 as an 11th plague of Passover, we can instead make this a deliciously distinctive holiday.

Passover is a food holiday, from the many symbolic elements of the Seder to the commitment of eating differently from any other week of the year. At a time like this, we want the comfort of our traditional holiday dishes, yet our kitchens are also the perfect place to embrace this unique Passover in different ways.

Take, for example, chicken soup, often called "Jewish penicillin." The soup does do a body good, and while you might have your own long-standing family recipe, maybe this is the year to incorporate plant-based eating with a vegetarian version. We're also suggesting two options for matzoh balls - one of them vegan - both pumped full of flavor with lots of green onions and dill.

Another vegetable-forward dish is a Kuku, a Persian dish little known in this country. It is packed with immune-boosting herbs and vegetables - in this case, cauliflower. The result is a satisfying vegetarian main or side dish. This recipe makes enough to almost guarantee leftovers. It freezes well, too. Although we might not be cooking for the masses this year, making extra for ourselves is a time-saving way to ensure we have plenty of tasty, healthy prepared food on hand.

Haroset is an easy pathway to new Passover flavors. At the Seder, Charoses symbolizes the mortar used by the enslaved Hebrews forced to build the pharaoh's structures. For most American Jews, the apples-and-walnut version is traditional, but there is an endless variety of charoses originating in all the many countries Jews have called home. This Turkish version is a tart, jammy and nut-free standout.

This year, try making several versions of charoses and have a taste-off as part of your Seder. The leftovers spread on matzoh during the ensuing eight days of the holiday remind us of how eating differently during Passover can be quite tasty.

Whomever you are home with, the holiday is the perfect time to involve everyone in the cooking. With kids, the kitchen is a place to have easy conversation, develop life skills and pass along family traditions. It's also an excellent place to painlessly work on math and science skills. With age-appropriate supervision, kids can help with stirring and measuring ingredients, chopping vegetables and herbs, and more.

Teens can oversee whole dishes, and everyone can have fun with a matzoh ball roll-in - hands well-washed, of course. It really doesn't matter if the balls are all perfectly shaped. Being together is what matters most.

If you're stuck in the house alone (as I am), cook with a friend or two virtually using FaceTime or Skype.

NON-CHICKEN MATZOH BALL SOUP

SERVINGS: 10 to 12

The only thing missing from this beloved soup is the chicken, but with all the rich flavor and golden color (thanks to turmeric and onion skins) few will miss it. The challenges with getting boxed vegetable broths to effectively stand in for chicken broth are the color, which skews orange or muddy brown, and the flavor, which can be flat. Find a quality vegetable broth (low-sodium works) or, even better, make your own.

While this soup is accompanied by vegan matzoh balls, you can certainly make a traditional version if you prefer. Making matzoh balls without eggs is challenging; the texture of these is soft, between a matzoh ball and a dumpling. Be gentle in mixing the batter; overmixing will result a denser, chewier ball from the overworked gluten. The batter thickens as it rests in the refrigerator, so follow the recipe and don't add more matzoh meal, even if the batter looks loose.

Cook the matzoh balls in broth if you want for more flavor, but don't cook them in the soup itself, as the starch from the matzoh balls will cloud the soup. That also protects you if your matzoh balls fall apart, because you can make a new batch of balls without ruining the soup. It is best to pour the hot soup over the cooked matzoh balls, or you can reheat them, already cooked, in the hot soup briefly before serving.

Make Ahead: The matzoh balls can be frozen in a single layer on a lightly greased, rimmed baking sheet. Be sure they do not touch until hard, then transfer the balls to an airtight container and keep frozen until needed. Partially defrost before adding to the soup until heated through. Ingredients

FOR THE SOUP

4 quarts boxed vegetable broth or homemade vegetable broth, such as Imagine brand's "no-chicken" version

1 medium yellow onion, unpeeled and quartered

6 medium carrots, trimmed (peeled, if desired)

6 stalks celery with leaves, trimmed

2 small turnips, peeled and quartered

2 medium leeks (about 1 pound) split lengthwise and rinsed thoroughly

1/2 small bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley (8 to 10 stems)

1/2 bunch fresh dill (10 to 12 stems), plus 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1 tablespoon dried

4 to 6 cloves garlic, peeled

4 to 5 bay leaves

1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper FOR THE MATZOH BALLS

2 cups finely chopped scallions (from about 10 to 16 scallions)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons ground flaxseeds

2 tablespoons tepid water

1 cup matzoh meal

1/4 cup potato starch

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 to 2 teaspoons fine sea salt, or to taste

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1 tablespoon dried dill

1 cup cool vegetable broth or water

Oil (optional) or water, for shaping the matzoh balls

Steps

For the soup: In a large stockpot, combine the broth, onion, 3 of the carrots, 3 stalks of the celery, the turnips, the dark green tops and tough outer layers of the leeks (reserve the white and light green parts), parsley, the dill stems, garlic and bay leaves. Set the pot over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and let the soup simmer until fragrant and flavorful, about 45 minutes. Stir in the turmeric, to taste, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. Remove from the heat, remove the lid and let cool.

While the soup cooks, slice the white and light green parts of the leeks into thin half-moons. Cut the remaining uncooked celery and carrots into bite-size pieces.

When the soup has cooled, set a large fine-mesh strainer over another large pot or bowl. Slowly pour the cooled broth through the strainer. Using the back of a large spoon, press the liquid out of the cooked vegetables. Discard the vegetables and return the liquid to the stockpot.

Return the stockpot to medium-high heat and bring the soup back to a slow boil. Add the reserved leeks, carrots and celery, lower the heat so the soup is at a simmer, cover and cook until just softened, 20 to 25 minutes. Add the chopped fresh or dried dill, and season with additional salt and pepper, if desired. Simmer 5 to 10 minutes.

For the matzoh balls: While the soup is simmering, clean the scallions, trimming the roots and the dark green tops and peeling away the tougher outer layer of the white part. Finely slice the rest of the green and white parts, cutting any thick white parts in half lengthwise before slicing.

In a large saute pan over medium-low heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the scallions in one layer and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a small bowl, mix the flaxseed with the 2 tablespoons of water and let it thicken, 15 to 20 minutes.

In a medium bowl, combine the matzoh meal, potato starch, baking powder and 1 teaspoon of the salt, mixing well with a fork or whisk to ensure there are no lumps.

In another medium bowl, combine the flaxseed mixture, dill, broth or water and the cooled green onions, including the oil they cooked in, and gently mix to combine.

Add the flaxseed mixture to the matzoh mixture and stir gently until just combined; you will have a thick batter. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight. The mixture will thicken as it chills.

When ready to cook the matzoh balls, fill a large stockpot about two-thirds full with water and bring to a boil. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt.

Remove the matzoh mixture from the refrigerator. Lightly oil your hands or dampen them with water. Roll the mixture into about 16 walnut-size balls and gently lower them into the boiling water or stock. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the matzoh balls rise to the top and double in size, 30 to 35 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, remove the matzoh balls from the water, draining them well. If not serving immediately, place the matzoh balls on a large, flat plate and cover loosely with foil until ready to serve.

To serve, place one or two matzoh balls in a bowl and ladle the hot soup over them. If the matzoh balls become cold, they can be reheated briefly in the soup. Garnish with fresh dill.

Nutrition (based on 12 servings) | Calories: 137; Total Fat: 4 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 921 mg; Carbohydrates: 23 g; Dietary Fiber: 3 g; Sugars: 5 g; Protein: 3 g.

CAULIFLOWER KUKU

SERVINGS: 8-10

A kuku is a Persian egg-based dish, usually vegetarian, similar to a frittata or omelet, but with a higher ratio of vegetables and chopped fresh herbs to eggs. Often cooked in an iron pan, this recipe uses a larger baking dish to feed a crowd. If you're cooking for a smaller group, kuku leftovers freeze beautifully.

Kukus - made with any herb you like, greens, potatoes and other vegetables - are perfect for brunch, lunch or dinner. The dish can be the center of a vegetarian meal, a side or cut into small bites. The traditional way to eat kuku is with sliced radishes, additional fresh herbs and yogurt - with the whole mess often encased in fresh flatbread.

NOTE: Chopping the herbs by hand is the best option so they don't get too finely chopped in a food processor.

Storage Notes: Cooked kuku can be refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 1 month. To serve, defrost if needed and heat in a 350-degree oven, covered for the first 10 minutes, then uncovered for another 10 minutes, or until heated through.

Ingredients

2 medium heads cauliflower (4 to 4 1/2 pounds total)

2 cups chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, dill or cilantro (2 to 3 ounces)

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium yellow onions, diced (3 to 4 cups)

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

8 large eggs

Steps

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.

Wash the cauliflower and pat dry. Cut the head in half from top to bottom, then cut the florets away from the core and coarsely chop the florets. Take the stems and the core and chop them into a small dice.

Wash and fully dry the herbs. Except for the basil, pick each from large stems and chop small but not too fine. Chiffonade the basil, cutting it into long, thin ribbons.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat and heat until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion becomes soft and translucent but not browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the garlic and cumin, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chopped cauliflower and mix to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is softened to al dente, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the salt, pepper and chopped herbs and mix well.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until they just start to foam. Add the cauliflower mixture and cheese, if using, and mix well.

Swirl 1 tablespoon of the oil in 9-1/2-by-13-1/2-inch glass baking dish, then place it in the hot oven for 3 to 4 minutes. Heating the pan with the oil helps create a crust on the bottom and sides of the casserole.

Once the baking dish is hot, carefully remove it from the oven. Working quickly, pour in the cauliflower mixture and spread it out, patting the top smooth. Lightly brush the top with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil.

Bake, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, or until the center is firm and the edges golden brown.

Let cool on the counter or top of your stove for about 10 minutes before cutting, if serving immediately. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Nutrition (based on 10 servings) | Calories: 197; Total Fat: 11 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Cholesterol: 149 mg; Sodium: 273 mg; Total Carbohydrates: 15 g; Dietary Fiber: 5 g; Sugars: 6 g; Protein: 9 g.

NUT-FREE TURKISH CHAROSES

SERVINGS: 4 to 8 servings (makes about 2 cups)

Passover tables feature seemingly infinite variations of this dish, which evokes the mortar used by the enslaved Hebrews forced to build structures for the pharaoh. Each version is influenced by the available ingredients and cuisines of the countries and regions where Jews have lived. Most combine fruit and nuts, often with wine.

This easy version does not include nuts or wine, making it perfect for people with nut allergies. It is based on recipes from Turkish Sephardim, descendants of Jews who found a haven in the Ottoman Empire after being expelled from Spain and Portugal during the Inquisition. Haroset has an appealing tart taste and can be sweetened with a little sugar, if desired.

MAKE AHEAD: Make the charoses at least 1 day ahead and refrigerate until needed. The haroset can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Ingredients

1 large orange, preferably organic

1 cup (about 5 ounces) golden raisins

1 cup (41/2 ounces) pitted dates

Granulated sugar, to taste (optional)

Steps

Wash the orange under cool water using dish soap or a vegetable cleaning solution, then rinse thoroughly. Cut off the peel and pith from the two ends of the orange, then cut the whole fruit, peel and all, into eight chunks. Discard any seeds. Place the orange pieces, raisins and dates in the bowl of a food processor and process until you get a chunky paste or a smoother, jam-like consistency, if you prefer. Stop the motor and scrape down the sides of the bowl a few times. Add a little sugar, if desired.

Transfer the haroset to a container with a lid and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving.

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 8): Calories: 123; Fat: 0 g; Saturated Fat: 0 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 3 mg; Carbohydrates 29 g; Dietary Fiber 3 g; Sugars 21 g; Protein 1 g.

SCALLION AND DILL MATZOH BALLS

SERVINGS: Makes 16 matzoh balls

Floaters or sinkers? Dense or fluffy? Strictly plain by the book or with some added flavors? Everyone has their favorite matzoh balls. These balls are not super fluffy, but they aren't sinkers, either. The scallions and dill make for flavorful bites along with the soup.

It's important to be gentle in mixing the batter. Overmixing will create a denser, chewier result from the overworked gluten. The batter thickens as it rests in the refrigerator, so follow the recipe and don't add more matzoh meal, even if the batter looks too loose.

Cook the matzoh balls in broth if you want for more flavor, but don't cook them in the soup itself, as the starch from the matzoh balls will cloud the soup. Also, if, your matzoh balls fall apart, you can make a new batch of balls while your soup stays safe. It is best to pour the hot soup over the cooked matzoh balls, or you can reheat them, already cooked, in the hot soup briefly before serving.

MAKE AHEAD: The matzoh balls can be frozen in a single layer on a lightly greased, rimmed baking sheet. Be sure they do not touch until hard, then transfer the balls to an airtight container and keep frozen until needed. Partially defrost before adding to the soup until heated through.

Ingredients

2 cups finely chopped scallions (from 10 to 16 scallions)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup matzoh meal

2 teaspoons fine sea salt divided, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

4 large eggs

1/4 cup plain seltzer, soup broth or water

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill (or 1 tablespoon dried)

Oil (optional) or water, for shaping the matzoh balls

Broth from Vegan Matzoh Ball Soup, see related recipe

Steps

Clean the scallions, trimming the roots and the dark green tops and peeling away the tougher outer layer of the white part. Finely slice the rest of the green and white parts, cutting any thick white parts in half lengthwise before slicing.

In a large saute pan over medium-low heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the scallions in one layer and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, combine the matzoh meal, the baking powder, 1 teaspoon of the salt and the pepper, mixing well with a fork or whisk to ensure there are no lumps.

In another medium bowl, whisk the eggs until just starting to foam. Add the cooled scallions and the oil they cooked in. Add the seltzer (or broth or water) and dill and gently mix to combine.

Add the egg mixture to the matzoh mixture and gently stir until just combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight. The mixture will thicken as it chills.

When ready to cook the matzoh balls, fill a large stockpot about two-thirds full with water and bring to a boil. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt.

Remove the matzoh mixture from the refrigerator. Lightly oil your hands or dampen them with water. Roll the mixture into about 16 walnut-size balls and gently lower them into the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the matzoh balls rise to the top and double in size, 30 to 35 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, remove the matzoh balls from the water, draining them well. If not serving immediately, place the matzoh balls on a large, flat plate and cover loosely with foil until ready to serve.

To serve, place one or two matzoh balls in a bowl and ladle the hot soup over them. If the matzoh balls become cold, they can be reheated briefly in the soup.

Nutrition (Per matzoh ball, not including broth. Based on 16.) | Calories 81; Fat 5 g; Saturated Fat 1 g; Cholesterol 47 mg; Sodium 254 mg; Carbohydrates 7 g; Dietary Fiber 1 g; Sugar 1 g; Protein 3 g.

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