Gordon Ramsay helped me unlock the secret to homemade 'Facon'

I never thought I would utter the following words, but here goes: Thank you, Gordon Ramsay.

A few years ago, Ramsay posted a TikTok for his version of a vegan BLT, and, no, it wasn't just an LT. He started by showing how he makes vegan "bacon" with rice paper. The first time I saw a reference to it, I figured it was pretty much the same idea I had tried a few years before: whisking up a smoky-salty-sweet marinade for rice paper strips and baking them until crisp. Been there, done that, liked it.

In fact, rice paper has been one of my go-to approaches when I want this type of crispy strip to crumble onto pastas, salads, grain bowls or soups; to stack into sandwiches; and to just snack on, straight off the sheet pan. But I also have loved making such strips from large coconut flakes and from thinly sliced carrots, tofu, tempeh, eggplant and mushrooms. They each have a distinct appeal: Some are a little chewier, some a little crisper, some a little fattier, some a little leaner.

Ramsay's recipe, meanwhile, has lived on all over the internet for years, thanks to his 40 million-plus followers on TikTok, no doubt. But I'm not one of them, so it wasn't until I recently ran across a take on his take that I started to fully appreciate it for its genius. Ramsay stuffs crumbled tofu between the layers of rice paper, adding a little chewiness to the super-crisp texture, and in the process, some protein, too. I found myself intrigued all over again, especially when I saw the result, which may resemble pork bacon more closely than virtually any other plant-based version I've seen.

And yet. Ramsay presses the tofu first to get out extra liquid, something I rarely do anymore. He cuts the rice paper into strips, then dips them in the marinade one at a time before sprinkling on the tofu and topping with the second layer of strips. All that struck me as just too fussy. I knew I could simplify it.

The tofu-pressing step was the first to go; I just patted it dry. And did I really need to stir more marinade into the tofu if the rice paper was dripping in it? Nope. Perhaps most importantly, rather than cutting the rice paper first, I brushed the whole sheets with the marinade on each side, sprinkled the tofu on one sheet and topped it with the other. Only then did I cut the strips. I skipped the wire rack approach for baking, because I knew the rice paper would crisp up without it, so I transferred the stuffed strips right to a parchment-lined sheet pan.

I loved the bumpy, bubbly look of the strips, and how the tofu gave more meatiness (if you'll excuse that analogy) to the texture. Pork bacon, after all, is anything but monotonous to eat, and this is similarly multidimensional.

If there's one thing I hear most frequently from readers, it's that they're looking for plant-based recipes that still pack some protein, so when I layered this "bacon" into sandwiches, I made another departure from Ramsay's approach: Instead of a basil aioli, I made a quick white bean spread. Another texture, more nutrition.

I can't say I'll never make another kind of "bacon" again. I do still love the taste (and fat!) of the one I make from coconut, the look of the carrot one, the chew of the versions made from mushrooms and eggplant. And I'm sure some other approach will make itself known to me. But for now, if there's one homemade vegan "bacon" to rule them all, this one looks like it - and that alone might be enough to make me hit the follow button on Gordon Ramsay's TikTok account.

Vegan BLTs

SERVINGS: 4 (makes 4 sandwiches)
Active time: 45 mins; Total time: 1 hour 15 mins

These vegan BLTs feature a "bacon" made from rice paper, tofu and a smoky marinade, inspired by a Gordon Ramsay recipe. A creamy spread made with white beans and sunflower seeds replaces the mayo to add protein. If you want to get the most protein possible, use super-firm tofu (usually vacuum-packed instead of in water) and a high-protein sandwich bread. For low-carb possibilities, see Variations.

Storage: Refrigerate the "bacon" in an airtight container for up to 5 days. (It will soften after a couple of days, but you can re-crisp it by baking at 350 degrees for about 5 minutes and letting it cool in the pan.) Refrigerate the white bean spread for up to 4 days.

Where to buy: Rice paper sheets, the wrappers used to make Southeast Asian spring rolls, can be found in Asian supermarkets, well-stocked natural foods stores and supermarkets, and online.

INGREDIENTS

• 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon maple syrup
• 4 large (8.5-inch) rice paper wrappers
• 4 ounces super-firm tofu, drained, patted dry and crumbled
• 1 (15.5-ounce) can cannellini or other white beans, drained but not rinsed
• 2 garlic cloves, pressed or finely grated
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 cup unsalted roasted sunflower seeds
• 8 slices low-sodium multigrain sandwich bread, such as Ezekiel Food for Life 4:9 brand, lightly toasted
• 8 leaves romaine lettuce
• 2 to 3 large tomatoes (2 pounds total), cored and sliced

STEPS

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 300 degrees. Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, sesame oil, smoked paprika and maple syrup until combined. Lay the rice paper sheets on the lined sheet pan and use a pastry brush to thoroughly brush each sheet with the marinade on both sides.

Scatter the tofu crumbles onto two of the rice paper sheets, spreading them evenly and leaving a 1-inch border. Top each with one of the remaining rice paper sheets. Let sit until the rice paper softens enough to stick, 5 to 10 minutes, then press around the edges to seal as much as possible. Use a large knife or kitchen shears to cut each sheet into 6 strips and press the edges again to seal.

Carefully transfer the strips to the lined sheet pan and bake for 20 minutes, or until the ends start to crisp. Flip the strips and bake for another 20 minutes, or until they are very crisp on the ends and are firm and dry to the touch in the middle. Remove the sheet pan from the oven and let the strips cool on the pan.

While the strips are baking and cooling, in a small bowl, combine the beans, garlic, olive oil and salt. Use a fork to thoroughly mash until creamy, then stir in the sunflower seeds. Taste, and season with more salt as needed.

When the strips have cooled and are crisp, assemble the sandwiches: Divide the white bean spread among the bread slices, about a heaping 2 tablespoons per slice, and spread evenly. Top half the bread slices with lettuce, tomatoes and 3 "bacon" strips, and invert the remaining bread on top. Cut in half, if desired, and serve immediately. (The "bacon" will start to lose its crispness if the sandwiches sit for more than about 20 minutes.)

Substitutions: To make this low-carb >> use lettuce and make wraps instead of sandwiches, or make these open-faced, using one rather than two slices. Gluten-free? >> Use gluten-free bread. If you don't need the protein >> use mayonnaise or aioli instead of the bean spread. Sesame oil >> olive oil. Cannellini beans >> navy or Great Northern beans or chickpeas. Canned beans >> 1 1/2 cups home-cooked beans. Sunflower seeds >> pumpkin seeds, chopped walnuts, pecans, peanuts or cashews. Romaine lettuce >> butter lettuce or your favorite lettuce for sandwiches.

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