CASTLES, SHORTBREAD AND WHISKY

http://www.JewishWorldReview.com | It's time to banish the myth that the signature Scottish dish is the scorned haggis. Glasgow, one of Scotland's largest cities, was recently rated by Conde Nast Traveller, (the bible of the travel industry), as the favorite UK destination for haute cuisine, culinary excellence and friendliness. The awards, which were voted for by readers of the magazine, ranked Glasgow as second in Britain, with only London delivering finer food, sans friendliness!

As a transplanted Scot who has long been touting the glories of that country's fresh, pristine larder, I'm delighted that Glasgow has finally achieved well-deserved recognition. Scottish cuisine is a complex treasury of old and new — and has nothing to do with English food. Alan Tomkins, last year's director of Glasgow City Marketing Bureau and the owner of eight outstanding eateries, notes that " the world clamors to buy at a premium, smoked Scotch salmon, beef, and fresh Atlantic seafood — we have it on tap. And in our restaurants, high standards are not only expected but achieved. �"

Glasgow's culinary revolution with its emphasis on Scotland's pure ingredients, was almost single-handedly started 25 years ago by Ronnie Clydesdale, chef-owner of The Ubiquitous Chip. He gambled his redundancy check (unemployment) on the possibility that locals might just appreciate good Scottish produce cooked simply and without pretense. It worked. Today, the Ubiquitous Chip has won numerous awards and is a prime destination for locals and visitors who want to sample the best of Scotland. From Wee Nibbles to Entrees to Sweetmeats the Ubiquitious Chip's menu items may include Solway Firth Grey Mullet, Lanark Blue ewe's milk cheese, and Campbells of Rutherglen Muscat. His son Colin continues the "think global, eat local," tradition with the opening of Stravaigin and Stravaigin 2.

Besides gourmet cuisine, the city is crammed with alfresco caf�s, top entertainment, museums and architectural gems like Glasgow University and Garnethill Synagogue, the latter an imposing Gothic-style structure. The influence of world famous architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh may be seen throughout the city. Nancy McLardie of the Glasgow City Marketing Board sums it all up saying "we are cool, creative and cosmopolitan ...this is the attraction for the millions of tourists each year."

But culinary fame goes beyond Glasgow. From this land of magical mountains and crystal clear lochs come venison, game, seafood, dairy products and fresh produce arriving in kitchens to be served within hours. Exploring Speyside, the area around the river Spey in north-east Scotland, the charming Highland village of Aberlour is the home of Walkers Shortbread where the famed recipe has been produced for more than one hundred years. Apart from a modest sign, no one could possibly guess that nestled in a grove of fir trees where the air is clean and fresh, are four state of the art bakeries producing 10,000 tons of OU certified Walkers Shortbread each year. Over coffee sipped from delicate cups and a selection of — you guessed it — fresh baked shortbread, Andrew Stokes, Export Sales Manager explained the company's worldwide success. "Quality is the determining factor and on that there is no compromise�ingredients come from areas as close to home as possible�flour is milled in Scotland, pure creamery butter from the UK and sugar beet from East Anglia, England." No artificial coloring, flavoring or preservatives are used. The United States is Walker's biggest market and the kosher certification of highest importance. A rabbi flies in from New York on a regular basis and chuckles Mr. Stokes "we never know when he is coming " but he adds " we always pass with flying colors!"

In the sleepy village of Comrie, we met with food celebrities Catherine Brown and Maxine Clark. At Grantown on Spey, we were welcomed by Sonia and William Marshall, owners of Culdearn House. At this luxurious, country hotel, Sonia, who is in charge of the kitchen, notes "all ingredients come from local suppliers so that we have complete traceability from farm to plate." At Drumearn Cottage, a comfortable "bed and breakfast" in Perthshire, anytime is tea time when Helen and Eric Gordon chat with guests over hot, fragrant tea, home baked biscuits (cookies) and little cakes. And while following Scotland's famous Whisky Trail, home of more than 90 distilleries, we discovered Ballindalloch Castle, the home of the Macpherson-Grants since 1546. For a fee, you may wander through the exquisitely furnished rooms, stroll through manicured gardens and take tea in the Castle Tea Rooms. For sale in the Castle gift shop, you can buy a package of family recipes tied with red and green clan plaid ribbon and a copy "I Love Food," a book of recipes and stories written by Clare Macpherson-Grant Russell, the grande-dame of Ballindalloch Castle.

On this trip, with dishes such as those which follow, all dietary caution flew out the window. Now it's on to Weight Watchers.

12 ounces smoked salmon, thinly sliced

2 large, ripe avocados, peeled and stones removed

8 ounces Neuchatel cream cheese, cut in chunks

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3-4 drops hot sauce or to taste

Lemon wedges and parsley sprigs for garnish

Rinse 6 small custard cups with cold water. Do not dry. Line with half the smoked salmon, allowing salmon to hang over the edges. Cut the avocados into 1-inch pieces. Place in food processor with remaining salmon, cream cheese, lemon juice and hot sauce. Process until smooth. Divide mixture evenly between the custard cups Fold over the edges of the salmon. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate. Turn out onto salad plates. Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories — 262 protein — 16g carbohydrates — 8g fat — 19g cholesterol — 34mg sodium — 1253mg

SEARED CALVES' LIVER WITH PARSNIP PUREE (MEAT)

Inspired by a dish served at Stravaigin restaurant

Serves 4

4 medium parsnips, peeled and cores removed
3 tablespoons margarine
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons bottled oil and vinegar dressing
Zest of 1 orange
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves
1/4 cup fresh parsley sprigs
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 slices (about 4 ounces each) calves' liver
6 shallots, thinly sliced
1-2 tablespoons seasoned flour

Cut the parsnips in 1-inch chunks. Cook in simmering water until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain well. Place in food processor with margarine. Process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. Process the dressing with the orange zest, basil and parsley until blended. Set aside.

In a large non-stick skillet, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium high heat. Sprinkle liver lightly with salt and pepper. Add to skillet and sear 2 minutes on each side. Remove from pan and keep warm. Toss the shallots in flour. Add remaining oil to the skillet. Heat over medium high heat. Add the shallots and fry until golden.

To assemble: Divide the parsnip puree evenly between 4 plates. Top with a slice of liver. Scatter crispy shallots over and drizzle the dressing around. Serve hot.

Approx. nutrients per serving: calories — 448 protein — 23g carbohydrates — 10g fat — 35g cholesterol — 401mg sodium — 309 mg

MACKEREL WITH OLIVES AND CAPERS (PAREVE)

Chervil is a popular herb used in Scottish cooking. It's a member of the parsley family but has a faint anise flavor. Parsley may be substituted.

Serves 4

4 mackerel fillets
2 tablespoons matzo meal
3 tablespoons seasoned dry breadcrumbs
Fresh ground pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoons sliced black olives
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
2 large tomatoes, seeds removed and cut in 1/4-inch thick wedges
2 tablespoons snipped chervil, divided
Salt and white pepper to taste

Toss the mackerel in breadcrumbs to coat. Sprinkle lightly with pepper. Cut three (1-inch) slashes in each.

In a large, non-stick skillet, heat the oil over medium- high heat. Add the mackerel, skin side down. Cook for 3-4 minutes until nicely browned. Turn over and reduce heat. Cook 3-4 minutes longer or until flakes are opaque when separated with fork. Remove and keep warm. Add the olives and capers to the skillet, stirring to scrape up the flavorful sediment. Cook for a minute or two. Add the tomatoes and 1 tablespoon chervil. Heat through.

To serve: divide the tomato mixture evenly onto 4 plates. Top with the mackerel, skin side up. Sprinkle with remaining chervil.

Approx. nutrients per serving: calories — 390 protein — 22g carbohydrates — 7g fat — 30g cholesterol — 78mg sodium -300mg

CARROTS WITH CARAWAY (DAIRY)

1 pound carrots, cleaned

2 teaspoons caraway seed

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper

Approx. nutrients per truffle: calories — 97 protein — 1g carbohydrate — 8g fat — 7g cholesterol — 9mg sodium — 16mg

WANT MORE GREAT RECIPES?
"Everyday Cooking for the Jewish Home: More Than 350 Delectable Recipes"

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JWR contributor Ethel G. Hofman is the former president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, whose members include -- and have included -- respected gourmets like Julia Child. To comment, please click here.